Going coco-nuts in Salalah, Oman Itinerary

Salalah is located in the Dhofar region of Southern Oman; the largest of 11 governorates in the Sultanate. To be honest, several months ago I hadn’t even heard of it and this time last year I probably couldn’t even spot Oman on a map but I am so grateful to have lucked into a long weekend of epic adventures in this magical spot!

Here's what you need to know:

Logistics: While it is not quite the bustling metropolitan city of Muscat, in 2015 Salalah (SLL) opened a new and improved International airport to best serve the expats and tourism industry. Throw your preconceived ideas about what a small-ish airport in the Middle East would look like because this place is impressive, organized and easy to navigate.

Cyclone damage from 2018. This road to the Marneef caves was destroyed by the Mekenu cyclone; there was no water here prior to the storm. This and many other examples demonstrate the severe impact Mekenu had in the region.

Where to stay? Well initially I had envisioned camping in the sticks, the grid kind of weekend but after a bit of recon, it became apparent that the tropical climate is mosquito heaven. There are a handful of resorts along the coast: the most luxurious is probably Al Baleed and the most ME-utopia is Souly Eco Lodge. However, we elected to stay at the Hilton due to the packed travel itinerary and my relentless dedication to rewards programs with free breakfast and automatic room upgrades.

Getting around? If you didn’t bring your own camel- rent a car! I’d assume any traveler ending up here has nature on the brain and unfortunately there is no public bus or uber that will drive you 2 hours into the mountains. A standard rental will get you to MOST destinations but due to the mountainous terrain and occasional mud, 4FWD is highly recommended/ required to access certain areas(they book up fast.) On the flip side, I know a couple who hired a driver to take them around- If you just want to quickly see all the hot spots then sure… but in my opinion, it is difficult to appreciate nature without time for at least 1 cliff jump.

Be nice to the camels!

Ha okay, if this is hard for you then we can’t be friends… But really, the local people of Salalah hold their camels in very high regard and harassing them would be first way to lose a friend. When they aren’t competing in camel beauty contests and camel races (I’m not making this up,) they wander leisurely at the beach, in the mountains, through the towns, and on the highway. So use caution when you see camel crossing signs and don’t honk your horn- this is their home and you are the guest.

Know your seasons: Khareef (monsoon ) season from June-September is commonly regarded as the best time to visit Salalah. White fog descends from the mountains and for a brief period, this little chunk of the Middle East transforms into a lush green wonderland providing a much-need respite from the heat.

The first view at Eftalquot.

Carry cash: My friends from Muscat told me that when you drive to Salalah the very first and last stop to make at the city limits is for coconuts and bananas at one of the street stands because they are unlike any in Oman or the world. Maybe some will take cards but when you leave the resorts your life will be much easier if you can pay cash. BYO metal straws.

Where to go:

Eftalquot Area (TT 0:30 from Hilton) This was our first stop on the trip, Arabian sea view from the cliff tops; we didn’t hike down to the beach but there was a pretty obvious trail if you have the time. An additional 10-minute drive along the coast leads to a cliff beach overlooking a shipwreck from the 2018 cyclone. During Khareef season 4WD is recommended.

Mugsail Beach(TT 0:25 from Eftalquot) is A favorite local spot, boasting white sands, mountainous backdrops, and good surf during Khareef season. Caravans of camels walk up and down this area throughout the day; free beach huts are available for use.

View fullsizeFrom Mughsayl looking towards Marneef Cave.

Marneef Cave and Mughsayl blowhole: Located right at the end of the beach and easily accessed via paved stairs/ ramps. This is a touristy area with 3 blowholes, viewing points, and countless little caves. There are restroom facilities and food vendors in the parking lot.

Shaat Sinkhole Walking Track (TT 0:40 from Marneef caves and Mugsayl blowholes) Quick stop; There is a walking track with 3 different viewing areas.

Shatt Sea Overprint (TT 0:05) Remenisant of the Napali Coast in Kauai these 300-meter sea cliffs were lush and green. We arrived at noon and they were initially covered in clouds, after waiting several hours the skies broke and revealed bright blue water below; it was absolutely stunning and worth the wait. Generally, the skies are clear in the early morning and again by 5 pm.

Shaat Secret Beach (TT 0:30) This drive requires a 4WD especially in Khareef season, and the narrow road can be a challenge when you cross with other drivers, which luckily doesnt happen often. Get here by continuing on the dirt road as you pass the Sea overview, total travel time is about half an hour but difficult to estimate as we frequently slowed down or stopped to take in the views. This beach was one of the most magical I have ever seen with bright blue waters and white sands equaling those of Hawaii, Greece or Ibiza.

Wadi Darbat (TT 1:00 from Hilton Salalah) Located on the Eastern side of Salalah, there are plenty of tours here but it is really not necessary as all areas can be easily accessed with a rental car. Places to go in Wadi Darbat:

Cascade waterfalls; these didn’t even exist until the 2018 cyclone but now there are dozens of small pools that trickle into waterfalls. It’s easily accessed and can be seen from the road but despite the popularity you can still get away from the crowd and find a private spot to swim.

Plain views from the top of the waterfall: it isn’t as obvious to see from the road but not a difficult walk from the free parking lot. Depending on your level of adventure it is an easy scramble to do some cliff jumping in one of the smaller top waterfalls or to find some different perspectives for the views below.

THE waterfall: There is no sign to indicate the road to the bottom waterfall but it is obvious from the main coastal road (You can literally see the waterfall.). From the parking lot follow brown signs up a rugged path, the pools of water will be in sight the entire time, not to mention the roaring sounds of the waterfall.

Wadi Darbat is a natural park with waterfalls, lakes, mountains and caves. A 100-meter high seasonal waterfall takes place only after heavy rains. The valley makes its way between the hills and plateaus until it flows into the Arabian Sea. In the Autumn season, the valley from the mountains turns into fatter falls falling from dozens of meters. The valley is characterized by unspoiled nature and thick vegetation. Salahlah is melting pot of tribal people, expats, camels and tourists… grab a coconut and ‘ll see ya there!

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